Croatia Cycling: Day 10

Day 10: Šipan to Dubrovnik

Distance: 12.3km

Elev. Gain: 189m

Last day of cycling!

Itinerary Description

Šipan Island is the largest island in the Elaphiti archipelago. In the 15th century it was a fashionable summer retreat for elite Dubrovnik families.

What I Will Really Remember

1. Last Day of Cycling
While our tour continued onto Dubrovnik, we said goodbye to our bikes after an easy jaunt around Šipan. The Giant Roam has been a surprisingly good bike for this journey. Here's a video of our last day of cycling:

2. Croatian Faux Pas
"Chasing a Croatian Girl: A Survivor's Tale" by Cody McClain Brown was a book recommended to me to get a sense of Croatian culture. This book is an easy read, with some laugh-out-loud sense of humour, but made me cringe at times when I think about how many faux pas I've made in Croatia. As a seasoned traveler, I should have done better.

(1) Croatians never ever be the first one to break a party.

"party breaker \' pär-tē\ \' brā-kǝr\: the person who first leaves a night out, a gathering of people, a party, or any other good time and by leaving thereby ruins the party and everyone else’s good time."

Yet, I was probably the first one to call it a night after dinner because I need my beauty sleep to be ready for cycling the next day.


(2) Coffee in Croatia is treated with the utmost respect as a social function. 

"Croatians love coffee, but more than that, coffee in Croatia is where everything gets done. It’s where friends meet, where deals are made, it’s how favors are asked, it’s how people are hired, fired, introduced, married, divorced, everything!"

Now I understand the 'pause' when I asked the barista for a take away or to go cup. As a coffee lover, I should be punished with a double dose of caffeine!

One size fits all!

(3) Talking about the war is not something to take lightly.

"... there wasn’t much to tell. But then, little bits would float to the surface, like the flotsam and jetsam still bobbing in the water above some long-sunken shipwreck. A story about a relative or old friend would suddenly veer into a story about the war. Talking about it is not something to take lightly."

(4) Barefoot is a major no-no!  

"I had no idea that being barefoot can cause all kinds of illnesses. I was later to learn that walking around, sometimes even in socks, is a good way to get rheumatism, the flu, the common cold and bladder infections." 

Yet, every time I saw the Adriatic Sea, I stripped off my cycling shoes or running shoes or sandals so fast that I would be airborne and into the water before I even remembered if my phone is in my pocket.

Havayanas, my travel companion, since 2002

(5) Inviting families and friends into your home when they visit is quintessential to being Croatians. On our last group dinner together, everyone was inviting everyone else to wherever they are from. Not only did I have the "oh, you're just saying that to be polite" look on my face, I was silent on the topic because I'll be on the road for the next few months or let alone know where I'll end up by the end of the year.


3. Random Things
A few other random things that I learned on this trip:

• A rich lifestyle is defined based on the lens that you choose to see it through 
• Church bells ring at random hours like 08:06 or 19:13 
• There are cats everywhere 
• My thumb is too weak for shifting the big gears. It has been almost two weeks, and my thumb still hurts to this day. Ouchie!
• Game of Thrones has lots of naked boobies

That's all folks! I discovered that I had some Kuna currency leftover in a hidden pocket, so maybe it signals that I'll be back to visit this lovely country one day. Until next time, dovidenja!

Croatia Cycling: Day 9

Day 9: Mljet Island
Distance: 46.3km
Elev Gain: 1125m

Itinerary Description

Today we ride the length of Mljet Island. The winding country road cutting through the green hills takes us high above the water – the views over the Adriatic are breathtaking! Once in Saplunara, we set sail to the Elaphiti Islands, an archipelago stretching northwest of Dubrovnik. Only the largest of these islands, Koločep, Lopud, and Šipan are populated. They have a long history, thought to be inhabited since ancient times; churches, chapels, and crumbling villas dot the landscape with a mixture of pre-Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) Easy /ˈiːzi/ (adjective)

1. achieved without great effort; presenting few difficulties.
Ever since half of the group parted a few days ago, we were promised 

• less driving - check!
• more sailing - check!
• easy cycling?

46.3km is still one of the bigger bubbles

Today's 1125m elevation gain is the highest of the trip so far. While I pressed on to keep in the mix with the other riders, I am definitely regretting that second glass of wine last night! 

2. (of a period of time or way of life) free from worries of problems.
On the other hand, with all the climbing, there were several descents that were straight, smooth, and easy to descend "free from worries of problems." As someone who learned to bike with a major fear of downhill, I never thought I would actually enjoy descending. At one time, I checked for on-coming traffic to pass wide on a long descent. This is Robin Williams' description of cycling: "the feeling as close to flying as possible"!


(2) Sailing, SUP and Swimming
After cycling, our catamaran picked us up from the southern side of the island. While there was not enough wind to put the sail up, we got to enjoy stand-up paddle boarding and swimming in a cove. I've lost count the number of times that I dove into the warm Adriatic Sea in this second half of the trip. The crystal clear blue water full of aquatic life just beckons me every single time! <3

(3) Chasing Michelin Star

Tonight, we enjoyed fine dining at an intimate waterside restaurant.

The restaurant doesn't have a menu, and you order by simply choosing between a meat, seafood, or vegetarian selection.

This octopus dish is the signature plate that is hoping to be the ticket to earn a Michelin star!

Croatia Cycling: Day 8

Day 8: Ston to Žuljana, via catamaran to Mljet
Distance: 44.2km + 9.3km
Elev Gain: 723m + 165m

A segment for an off-the-beaten path!?!

Itinerary Description

From Ston to Mljet Island National Park. It's a heavily wooded island, known for its white and red wines, olive oil, goat cheeses and stories about Homer's hero Odysseus. Two warm saltwater lakes, with high saline concentrations thought to have healing properties, as well as a former Benedictine monastery built in the 12th century are visited as we cycle the pathways of the park.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) If "Plan A" didn't work. The alphabet has 25 more letters!

The ride out of Ston was on a busy road. We've been spoiled for the past week riding country roads with little traffic, so this was an unpleasant change of scenery. While most drivers were courteous and moving over the centre line to pass us safely, the drivers couldn't always see us in the blind curves until the last moment. After a pit stop at a winery, the group consensus was to move off the major road onto a side road. The side road has a major uphill, but we all much rather climb the hill rather than dodge traffic.

What goes up must comes down! And before we descended back to sea level, we were rewarded with an incredible view. This off-the-beaten path was so much better than Plan A. Thanks to our guides and everyone in our group for being accommodating and flexible in changing plans as requested.

D, risking his life, climbed on top of the van to capture this photo for us!

(2) Sailing!

Wow, wow, wow! Sailing is a whole new experience for me! I've sailed a couple times before, but it was always a work or business networking function. Never just for pure fun!

At the front of our catamaran, we had a big net where we can watch the water moves under us, and by chance, spot a mermaid! It was also a great spot to even out the tan lines from the bike jersey and bike shorts. Sailing is truly the perfect complement to cycling!

Huck Finn is the name of our boat, and it comes with a handsome skipper. ;-) Every port we dock at, you can tell all the ladies at shore come flocking to "chat" with the skipper. He was one of the few Croatians who didn't speak fluent English, so I got to practice Spanish with him as he has been learning Spanish to converse with his Venezuelan lover!


(3) The secrets of Mljet

Mljet, or "honey", Island is a national park known as a "green island" because it is heavily wooded. Its centerpieces are the two saltwater lakes - the smaller lake in the North is connected to the larger lake in the South by a canal underneath a small bridge. The lakes' high saline concentration is said to have healing properties, especially for skin diseases and rheumatism.

A 12th-century monastery and its Church of St. Mary sits in the middle of the larger lake. To reach the island within the island, one waves a flag and a water taxi rows over to pick you up.

In the evenings, after all the day trippers depart, tranquility quietly sets in. A perfect opportunity to look up towards to the sky at the moon, the stars, and the milky way!

Croatia Cycling: Day 7

Day 7: Ston
Distance: 16km
Elev Gain: 382m

Only one trophy today!

Itinerary Description

Overtaken by the Dubrovnik Republic in the 14th century, Ston became the most important stronghold along the republic's northern boundary. From Ston, enormous defensive walls were built stretching across the isthmus to the nearby harbor of Mali Ston. At ~3,000' in length, this is the longest defensive wall in Europe and the second longest in the world after The Great Wall of China. We walk on the walls with good views over the maze-like streets of Ston and the ancient salt pans which brought this area much wealth during the lucrative salt trade.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) A Crash!
I didn't crash my bike (again)! Knock on wood. Just as we were departing to ride, I fell off a set of slippery stone stairs. For a second, I thought I could break the fall, and before I knew it, I was at the bottom of the stairs. Ouch, I'm okay! Ouch, it's just a skin abrasion on my hand. Ouch, it's just a bruise here, here, and there. Bah! I was probably more beat up than I wanted to believe, making today's 16km ride the hardest ride ever! I think I was whining both silently and verbally all 16 kilometres. All I wanted is to stop cycling, jump into the Adriatic Sea, and just float!


(2) Bosnia & Herzegovina
To drive from Northern Croatia to Southern Croatia, we had to go through the Neum corridor of Bosnia & Herzegovina (BiH). This 12-mile stretch is BiH's only access to the lovely Adriatic coast. The irony is that the border separates two peoples that lived together for centuries, speak essentially the same language, and share many of the same customs.

The border crossing was uneventful in that we sat in our van for nearly an hour while our guides, passports in hand, said something in Croatian. What it entailed, I’m not sure, as my passport carries no evidence of entering Bosnia, and only an EU entry stamp back into Croatia.

It is possible to avoid the border crossing by ferry, but adding significant time to the travel, so until a 2,400-metre bridge is built to bypass the corridor, the only way through by land is through the border crossing.

(3) Fresh Fish from Sea to Table

Pet first, then eat! :-)

Croatia Cycling: Day 6

Day 6: Krka National Park
Distance: 37.8km
Elev Gain: 289m

Boom, QOM!

Itinerary Description

Krka National Park’s landscape is a wonderland of fantastic karst formations, travertine waterfalls, cliffs, caves, and chasms. In addition to its scenic beauty, the park also contains numerous important cultural and historic landmarks. The ruins of five fortresses dating from the 14th century line the banks of the Krka River, including Kljucica, the largest and best preserved fortress in the park. We spend our last day cycling through the park, exploring its waterways and complex history dating back to late 10th century and the first Croatian kings. In the afternoon we drive to the medieval walled town of Trogir, unique among Dalmatian towns for its abundant Romanesque and Renaissance architecture, which thrived under Venetian rule.  After exploring the maze of stone streets in the old town, we share a farewell dinner and celebrate our cycling adventure.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) #GlutenIntensive
We had the best prosciutto & cheese ever! It was so good that I had forgotten to take a #foodporn photo. You'll just have to trust me that it was that good and settle for a random photo of prosciutto from the Internet.

A long long time ago, a guide once told me that it is virtually impossible to find a group who doesn't have dietary restrictions. This holds true in this group with vegetarians, non-diary and/or gluten-intolerance. Coined by one of the guys in the group, #glutenintensive was born. That's my kind of diet while cycling!

(2) Cycling Buddy
When joining a cycling group, you never know what pace the other riders are. I still remember the first night of introductions like it was yesterday. It seems like everyone was a super cyclist based on what they said. We even had an ex-pro cyclist among us. I refrained from making any commentary on my own riding abilities because it's really irrelevant once we start riding. The smartest rider is the one who rides at his or her own appropriate pace for the planned distance given the number of days.

I got lucky to have M in this group. Some days he motivates me and other days I motive him to push harder. Today, we visited a monastery at the bottom of the hill. We had the option to ride our bikes or in the van. When I saw M getting off his bike to take the van option, I convinced (or heckled) him into riding with me. As we descended multiple switchbacks, I was laughing all the way because I know M was cursing me out. In hindsight, we were both glad to have conquered it, and I even got a QOM (Queen of the Mountain) on Strava! B@@M!

(3) Time to Set Sail
Today, we say goodbye to half of our group. As they depart the tour, the rest of us continue on to the extension part of the tour. While it has been a good week, I am secretly happy that we won't be cramped into the van at the maximum capacity anymore. What's even better is that there will be less driving as we will be sailing in a catamaran next week! Happy dance!

Huck Finn, our catamaran for the next week!

Croatia Cycling: Day 5

Day 5: Ugljan & Pašman Islands
Distance: 29.8km
Elev Gain: 263m

More blings!

Itinerary Description

Leaving the mountains, lakes, and forests behind, we head towards the ancient city of Zadar on the Dalmatian coast. A ferry transports us from Zadar to Preko on Ugljan Island. Populated since the Neolithic period, Ugljan's current settlements date back to the middle ages. The island has Roman ruins, ancient churches and convents, castles, and is covered with rich Mediterranean vegetation, fig trees, olive trees, and vineyards. Cycling along the eastern edge of the island, we ride toward Pašman Island, with views to the deep blue Adriatic Sea. The two islands are connected by a bridge over the narrow Ždrelac straight. Pašman is known to have the cleanest water in the Adriatic due to the changing currents around the island. Time and weather permitting, we take the opportunity to swim in the clear blue waters at one of the local beaches. After cycling to the dock at Tkon, we ferry back to the mainland and drive to the town of Skradin, located near the Krka River. Inhabited by Croatians since the 9th century, Skradin is a romantic Mediterranean town with narrow streets and a charming marina.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) The walled city of Zadar reminds me of little towns in Italy. The winding small pedestrian streets just waiting to be explored. The waft of seafood fresh from the Adriatic Sea lingering in the air. The sights of gelato everywhere. I could just plop myself here in a little cafe and read a book, except we had to board a ferry and go cycling on the Dalmatian islands. #roughlife

(2)"Dame/Žene imaju prednost"
Last year, after a week of Tuscany Cycling tour, I had another week of independent traveling in Italy. This year, the Croatia Cycling tour takes up the full two weeks without any time for self-guided travel. I can tell almost a week in (day 6 of tour/day 5 of cycling), I'm itching to explore on my own during any down time from the group. As we boarded the ferry from Zadar to Ugljan Island, I was off exploring every floor and every corner of the ferry. I joined the locals at the bar on the ferry, and after some hand gesturing, I learned the phrase "Dame/Žene imaju prednost," which means "Ladies first." Almost everyone in Croatia except the elder generation speaks fluent English, which may make it easy for tourists to travel here, but I personally miss the cultural interactions, or mis-interactions.

(3) Full moon at the top of fortress
After our quick orientation of Skradin, we had two hours to get ready for dinner. I was ready to go in 5 minutes. With an hour and 55 minutes to spare, I went out on the town. First, I tracked down some gelato to prevent hunger (or h-anger) before dinner. Second, I stepped into a shop and spent about 5 seconds picking out some jewellery. It went something like this:

"How can I help you?"
"What's the specialty of the region?"
"These Šibenik Buttons."
"Perfect, I'll take the ones in rose gold."

I later learned that the Šibenik Buttons are named as the most original Croatian souvenir by the Croatian Tourist Board in 2007.

Then, I peered into a dark alley with steep steps leading up to the unknown. I snapped a quick photo of the stairs just in case someone find me later will know my last known location.

Up, up, up I go! The path turns into a trail and I can see a flag at the top. Soon I find myself at the top of the fortress. Wow, the view of the town and the harbour below was just incredible!

Where's Waldo?

After dinner, I convinced the crew to accompany me up the dark alley again to see the night view. Just as we reached the top of the fortress, the full moon peered out behind the mountain. I tried to capture the moment on iPhone, but it just doesn't do any justice. Phone off, exhale, and simply enjoy the rising of the full moon. We were there at the right time at the right place. This is one of 'la dolce vita' moments!

Croatia Cycling: Day 4

Day 4: Plitvice Lakes
Distance: 36.7km
Elev Gain: 684m

All the blings!

Itinerary Description

We cycle in and around the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Plitvice Lakes, a sequence of 16 turquoise lakes linked together with cascading falls and travertine pools. The lakes are surrounded by beech and pine forests and are home to extensive wildlife.

The stream Plitvice ultimately forms the highest waterfall, the 230' Veliki Slap. The area has numerous viewpoints connected by walking paths, providing lovely views of the surrounding landscape and the turquoise blue of the lakes, including the biggest lake, Kozjak, and the highest peak, Medvjedjak, in the distance.

The most beautiful part of our ride begins with a descent to Proscansko Lake and following the River Matica to the small village of Plitvicki Ljeskovac. We continue further along a remote road to the Black River source. After a rest and picnic lunch, we cycle through a forest to Jezerce Village before returning back to Korana Village.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) One look at the Plitvice Lakes, it’s immediately obvious why masses flock to see this crystal clear lake. A day ago, I thought the Velebit National Park was a great place to ride. Today, the cycle route around the Plitvice Lakes was even better. A service road all to ourselves with trees providing cool shades. After the day trippers have gone home, we also explored the lakes on foot. The photo opportunities were endless. Our guides had also planned a ferry ride for us to travel across the lake on ferry, but due to unforeseen circumstances, we sadly missed out on the once-in-a-lifetime magic!

 

(2) "Do you know where Vidikovac is?"
As P had gotten lost earlier in the day, he decided to wait for the group, so M and I decided to forge ahead and follow the route direction. We came upon a T-intersection that has us follow the sign Vidikovac. Both of us assumed that it was the name of the town. We asked the tourist office guide/park ranger,

"Do you know where Vidikovac is?"
"Yes, both ways are Vidikovac. It means viewpoints."

LOL

Another fun Croatian word to learn: SLAP = Waterfall!

(3) Villa Izvor (Object 99)
The unspoken rule is that after lunch, we always have to cycle uphill. A 3-mile climb to Tito's Object 99 house was the last thing I wanted to do with a full tummy, but the climb wasn't as bad as it seemed and the secret hideaway was worth it! A massive mansion with slides next to the stairs, 99 bedrooms, and escape tunnels. I would've totally moved in and redecorated the place, but sadly there was no pool, so I had to pass. ;-)

 

Here's a full description of Object 99: Villa Izvor (‘Spring’) is hidden in the Plitvice Lakes National Park. The construction was started by Josip Broz Tito after The World War II. It was built from 1948 to 1953 by thousands of World War II convicts. The surface area of the villa is over 10 thousand square meters. Millions of tons of greyish stone 'škriljevca', specially delivered by train from the Mevednica mountain, were used in the construction. Prisoners from Lepoglava made the unique furniture out of solid wood. The villa was secretly opened, away from the public eye. In addition to the special kind of precious cut stone, Villa was lined with solid wood, painted in seven layers and had the lead finish. The interior was impressive, including marble stairs and the carpet , the antique furniture in some rooms, bowling alley, pool room, home theater, conference rooms and relaxation rooms. The outside of the residence was guarded by the dogs, and thick iron hinges were located at the front doors. Villa was also built as a shelter. It was situated in a dense forest, hidden from airplanes and easily defensible. Also, convicts dug 80 meters long underground tunnel, which was an emergency exit from the residence. The right wing of the villa featured about 20 apartments for distinguished guests. Residence floor included dozen offices with connecting doors. It had a closed central heating system with two heating boilers. The electricity was supplies by the hydropower from the river canyon located underneath the villa. Josip Broz Tito stayed in it only five times. Speculation was that it was made for his wife Jovanka, whose birthplace Jošani is only a few dozen kilometers from the villa.

Croatia Cycling: Day 3

Day 3: Northern Velebit National Park

Distance: 68.3km

Elev Gain: 931m

Bling! Got my first Croatian Strava trophy!

Itinerary Description

The Northern Velebit National Park's mountain chain rises 2,600' above sea level. We briefly explore Krasno village in the heart of the mountains before descending by bike to the Valley of Gacka River, world famous for excellent trout fishing. Our lunch stop is at the river's source, which is surrounded by numerous old wooden mills. From here, we continue cycling through the valley and into the area of Plitvice Lakes National Park. This evening we retire to the tiny village of Korana, located in a picture-postcard riverside setting near Plitvice Park.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) Croatians are coffee lovers too! It's always a good day when we start the ride at a coffee shop. Especially when the cappuccino costs ~$1. Best splurge of the day!

Cultural learning: Croatians take hand washing very seriously. I believe this sign tells us to always remove rings and bracelets before washing hands.

(2) Today was one of the longest riding days. After a demoralizing day 1 of walking the bike up a steep pitch (see Day 1), I was starting to find my biking legs. I felt like I've redeemed myself from the first day, and getting stronger by the day. The Northern Velebit National Park was gorgeous without many cars on the road. One guide told me to make the other guide work harder to chase me down. Challenge accepted! Loved pushing all. the. watts. and also then having enough time to stop for photos.

(3) Being chased by a dog. Almost running over the said dog. Yelling at the stupid dog.

Croatia Cycling: Day 2

Day 2: Risnjak National Park & Slovenia

Distance: 42.5km

Elev Gain: 571m

Itinerary Description

Risnjak National Park, located in Gorski Kotar, the most mountainous and heavily forested region of the country. Located just under 10 miles from the Adriatic Sea, the park includes the Risnjak and Snježnik ranges, as well as the source area of the Kupa River which is, beyond doubt, one of the most beautiful places in the area. The Kupa River forms a natural border between Croatia and Slovenia. It springs from a karstic well at the park's lowest point, forming a turquoise pond over 650 feet long and nearly 100 feet wide. This natural phenomenon is one of the deepest and strongest river sources in Croatia, and remains puzzling for scientists.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) Duck sex! WHAT?! While our guide was explaining the route of the day, we were distracted by these two ducks going at it. Can't really blame us for not listening to instructions! At first, they looked like they were fighting. One duck bit the other duck's neck. Then they were done before you even had a chance to get the camera out. Sorry folks, no photos or videos, but I'm sure you can google duck sex if you really wanted to see it, though I can't promise Croatian ducks do it the same way as other ducks. ;-P

(2) Crossing over the Čabranka River, a tributary of the Kupa, into Slovenia, and riding along the Slovenian bank of the Kupa River to Brod back into Croatia. With my passport in my bike jersey pocket, I realized how little I knew about this part of the world. In 2006, I had booked a weekend trip to Croatia. This was back when I was living in London. Something last minute came up and I never got to go. All I knew about Croatia is that it is across the Adriatic Sea across from the boot of Italy.

11 years later, I can't believe that I'm on a cycling tour in Croatia. It's hard to believe because I didn't know how to ride a bike yet back then. I'm glad that I get to see the country now properly and intimately on a bike for two weeks rather than just a rushed weekend. Things have a funny way of working out and going in full circle, eh! :-)

(3) It's hard to pick the top 3 things I will remember. There was the cold and rain, and we were all bundled up in our rain jacket.

There was the big giant statue in Slovenia.

And there were these sweetest, tiny, wild strawberries that we picked off the side of the road.

Cycling and food are the best combination!