Croatia Cycling: Day 5

Day 5: Ugljan & Pašman Islands
Distance: 29.8km
Elev Gain: 263m

More blings!

Itinerary Description

Leaving the mountains, lakes, and forests behind, we head towards the ancient city of Zadar on the Dalmatian coast. A ferry transports us from Zadar to Preko on Ugljan Island. Populated since the Neolithic period, Ugljan's current settlements date back to the middle ages. The island has Roman ruins, ancient churches and convents, castles, and is covered with rich Mediterranean vegetation, fig trees, olive trees, and vineyards. Cycling along the eastern edge of the island, we ride toward Pašman Island, with views to the deep blue Adriatic Sea. The two islands are connected by a bridge over the narrow Ždrelac straight. Pašman is known to have the cleanest water in the Adriatic due to the changing currents around the island. Time and weather permitting, we take the opportunity to swim in the clear blue waters at one of the local beaches. After cycling to the dock at Tkon, we ferry back to the mainland and drive to the town of Skradin, located near the Krka River. Inhabited by Croatians since the 9th century, Skradin is a romantic Mediterranean town with narrow streets and a charming marina.

What I Will Really Remember

(1) The walled city of Zadar reminds me of little towns in Italy. The winding small pedestrian streets just waiting to be explored. The waft of seafood fresh from the Adriatic Sea lingering in the air. The sights of gelato everywhere. I could just plop myself here in a little cafe and read a book, except we had to board a ferry and go cycling on the Dalmatian islands. #roughlife

(2)"Dame/Žene imaju prednost"
Last year, after a week of Tuscany Cycling tour, I had another week of independent traveling in Italy. This year, the Croatia Cycling tour takes up the full two weeks without any time for self-guided travel. I can tell almost a week in (day 6 of tour/day 5 of cycling), I'm itching to explore on my own during any down time from the group. As we boarded the ferry from Zadar to Ugljan Island, I was off exploring every floor and every corner of the ferry. I joined the locals at the bar on the ferry, and after some hand gesturing, I learned the phrase "Dame/Žene imaju prednost," which means "Ladies first." Almost everyone in Croatia except the elder generation speaks fluent English, which may make it easy for tourists to travel here, but I personally miss the cultural interactions, or mis-interactions.

(3) Full moon at the top of fortress
After our quick orientation of Skradin, we had two hours to get ready for dinner. I was ready to go in 5 minutes. With an hour and 55 minutes to spare, I went out on the town. First, I tracked down some gelato to prevent hunger (or h-anger) before dinner. Second, I stepped into a shop and spent about 5 seconds picking out some jewellery. It went something like this:

"How can I help you?"
"What's the specialty of the region?"
"These Šibenik Buttons."
"Perfect, I'll take the ones in rose gold."

I later learned that the Šibenik Buttons are named as the most original Croatian souvenir by the Croatian Tourist Board in 2007.

Then, I peered into a dark alley with steep steps leading up to the unknown. I snapped a quick photo of the stairs just in case someone find me later will know my last known location.

Up, up, up I go! The path turns into a trail and I can see a flag at the top. Soon I find myself at the top of the fortress. Wow, the view of the town and the harbour below was just incredible!

Where's Waldo?

After dinner, I convinced the crew to accompany me up the dark alley again to see the night view. Just as we reached the top of the fortress, the full moon peered out behind the mountain. I tried to capture the moment on iPhone, but it just doesn't do any justice. Phone off, exhale, and simply enjoy the rising of the full moon. We were there at the right time at the right place. This is one of 'la dolce vita' moments!